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02 October 2004 @ 10:29 pm
*insert cash register sound here*  

I got some more mold sanding done. I fucked up and thought it would be a brilliant idea to try to start sanding both layers separately, and then I realized that I had sanded part of the top one in too far, so I finally got off my duff and unearthed my Bondo and stuck them together and started glopping Bondo on the messed-up part. At least it wasn't severely messed up, so I think I only need one or two more applications to build it back up again. I'm going to eventually Bondo the entire thing to give it weight and a smooth, durable surface, so it's no big deal.

I got the jinbaori pattern done, but I'm slightly annoyed because it will take a ludicrous amount of yardage (5 5/8!) to make it. Why? The (nearly dead accurate) brocade I'm using is only 29" wide and its pattern repeats every 7", so I can't fit pattern pieces side by side and be guaranteed that I can match the pattern on all seams. If I weren't anal about matching, I would only require about half the yardage, but I refuse to have fugly sticking out like a sore thumb pattern breaks on the back and sides of this garment.

And I finally found my rivets! FInally! They're the large-headed aluminum pop rivets sold by Wicks Aircraft Supply. The head is perfectly oversized, and the grip length is short. The one problem is that it's not QUITE as short as I hoped (I was looking for 1/8" and these are about 1/4"), so I'm going to have to use something thicker than, say, cotton canvas for the leg armor base. Right now, the best idea I have is to get some armor-weight vegetable-tanned leather, which isn't much thinner than that and can be very easily curved into a shape (which would eliminate the need to put in boning or some sort of other structure, which is what I would have to do with a fabric base). The pieces will then need a backing and border of a smooth fabric so they slide over the jinbaori instead of getting stuck. (The border is there for pertiness and accuracy.) For the backing, I think it would be easiest to quilt or glue some smooth cotton over headliner foam and then stick that on with contact cement. The border will be fun because I'm scared shitless of sewing leather, and I don't think it would be even possible to sew through that thick stuff on the machine. Then again, there's always the contact cement route. Feh...I'll figure it out.

The primer isn't quite done yet. The past few days have been very humid, so I didn't get much chance to spray.
Current Mood: ow, my head hurts
Current Music: Libbie Schrader - Blood Red Moon
silverluzsilverluz on October 3rd, 2004 07:52 am (UTC)
If you'd really prefer to use fabric, you might be able to use tin snips to cut the rivets down a bit. Please don't try to sew through leather on your sewing machine unless 1) it's lightweight like an ultrathin suede or 2) you happen to have an industrial machine intended for leather or 3) you just want to kill your machine. There are specific techniques for sewing leather - I could probably get Galen to explain if you wanted - but they're mostly for sewing leather to more leather, might not be necessary for just attaching fabric.
The Heavy Metal Matador: frylockrydain on October 3rd, 2004 09:54 am (UTC)
Thanks for the input!
An experienced leathercrafter on cosplay.com told me the exact same thing. Don't worry...I don't habitually throw random materials at my sewing machine and hope that they'll work. =P I've read about handsewing leather, too, so I could get the requisite marking and punching tools if I needed to. Honestly, that might not be too bad - sort of like lacing. I just hope the heavy thread wouldn't be too overwhelming for the border fabric, but considering that there won't be any stress put on that seam, I'd think it would be OK.

I might not have fully explained the type of rivets I got. They're blind rivets, i.e. the sort that you use with a rivet gun. I wanted that type specifically because they're quick and easy to set properly - I didn't particularly feel like peening 150 regular rivets by hand. Blind rivets are a single piece. You put one in the gun and poke the end through the hole, and when you squeeze the gun, it puts some sort of pressure on the rivet that makes the back end expand. Thus, I can't cut them down. I think leather is going to be a better armor backing anyway, so it's all good.